Technical INFOfeb.2018   

All the content of “My IP24” is published in good
faith  and is for non-commercial purpose of the owner of this page.

 

 

 

NOTE: This article is important. As the IP24 is introduced in 1975 we suppose that all boats before were IP23 and all boats after that date were IP24.  Year of “Build” in our listing is therefore in many cases doubtful.  Reason is the boats have no moldnumber and all boats are around 24ft.

As our IP24 had a wooden maststep which was completely gone ,

drawings of dimensions were made and  a new one was made from    10 mm SS. At the photo you see also the  blocks for the kicker and sails. Everything can be handled  from the cockpit.

For the  dimensions click here  and here. (2 scans)

For  Photo’s  click here.

 

After 1 year sailing we had al lot of clearance on the ruddershaft caused by galvanic corrosion.

Changed the bottombearing into  something like teflon. On top,the

 gland was still usable . After that  we  put a zinc ball on the shaft just above the rudder and had to renew that every  year.

For better  Photo’s click here.

For transport a safe craddle is  required. This one homemade from schedule 40  , 3.5inch piping . Length 250cm , wide 215cm (transporters are 255cm wide). The adjustable struts are used building struts. In front about 95cm high and behind about 105cm. Distance between wooden socks on each side must be something more than de length of the moulded strakes for canting keels on the downside of the hull.(Safe load 1 pipe on 210cm about 900kg.)

For Photo’s click here.

Our boat didn’t have a aft deck rail,so made one . Looked well at some other photo’s and took dimensions on the boat.

For dimensions see drawing (in Dutch) click here.

For larger Photo click here

Gunwale of natural rubber 20mm thick,  5pcs cut from 5x1mtr. Resulting in17cm x 5mtr each.

Three layers of  plywood strips  were  rotten on  several places.

As bending thick wood  is very difficult we tried something new with succes. It was  not an easy job but rather quick to do.

1. A firm for packingmaterial used in chem.industrie cut a 5x1m (standard ) very sharp in 5pcs  and 5meter long (20mm thick)  

 2. Removed all the wood and screws from the freeboards. Grinded it, cleaned it and drew a line  about  8cm from the top all around. 3. On this line  drilled holes on a distance  of exactly 15 cm. Also on the rubber strips we did the same but  not on the same heith. (has to be measured from the  edge of the boat. The rubber comes about    4 cm above the deck, so it formes a rubber toerail. Drill 5.5mm.

4. Made about 50 plywood pieces with 8mm holes in it to mount the strips with 1 component polyurethane adhesive like Sikaflex. Bought self tapping bolds and large rings to screw the plywood pieces to the rubber and molded gunwale into the 5.5mm holes

5. With 2 people fitted the strips on the boat with 5.5mm nails  all around and cut everything  to the  right fit  specially where the strips meet. (Cut strip 3 and 4 at the middle of the stern.)                  See the photo for this detail.

6.Grinded the rubber strips and degreased them thoroughly with aceton, thinner or methanol doesn’t work. Degreased the boat also.

 7. With 2 people fitted one strip beginning from the bow. Put glue on the boat for about  2 feet , also on the strip, up and push nails in it. Go on by adding glue on the boat and strip whilst working futher and put nails in it. After that put one by one a plywood piece with 8mm selftapper  with batterydrilling machine in place of each nail and screw it firmly. The glue begins to dry fast so bringing the glue on the edge for a large piece is not working!

8. Let it dry at least three days  before  taking the plywood pieces away for the next strip to glue. And so on. It takes some weeks to dry out for strengh. Second strip on the other side starting from the bow. Nr.3 on the other side. The holes have to be filled with the same kit. Midships some holes have to be made to get rid of the water in the galways. It  can easely be painted and also advised because natural rubber likes the dark   to stay in good condition.  (Method to use the nails to hold the rubber strips up is because of the weight and  to get it perfect to position.)

For Photo’s  CLICK HERE                 

 Nowadays boats have mechanical seals on the propellershaft  and waterflushed rubberbearings. Most of our older boats have bronze bearings, have a gland and are greased by hand.

Propellershaft greasing is a difficult job for old men but today it’s possible to do it automatic with a pringloaded device. The only poblem is that most of these things have problems to get the grease out because of the 1.5foot waterpressure added to the friction of the grease in the piping. So we did some measurements and had in our case we had to put an extra spring inside for a good performance.

 Larger Photo’s     click here  

Anybody who also knows something  nice to help each other please sent us a mail.                                            

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN IP23 AND IP24

(Found at the internet. Author: Martin Johns , Plymouth UK.)


“IP23's were the original boat. They started moulding them on the Isle of Wight in the early Sixties. They were quite lightly built by todays standards but many remain in use & seem to have really stood the test of time. The IP 24 was the modified version but I'm not sure when they were introduced. They had a heavier lay up & a moulded rubbing strake from midships,
around the stern & back to midships on the other side. This is generally topped with a wooden rubbing strake to match the gunwhales. What is confusing is that most IP 23's also have a wooden rubbing strake in the same place but not the moulding underneath so be sure to look carefully. As far as I'm aware lengthwise they are exactly the same, maybe they were over 23ft to start with so the name was changed to reflect this. Both the IP 23 & IP 24 are known to be excellent sea boats & there a few modern boats of a similar length that are better sea boats than the design that is almost 50 years old.”